One of the most important things to consider when you are learning how to fade hair is how high it is going to be. There are a lot of things to consider as you think about this question. Some of them include cowlicks, hair thickness, hair color, length of the bangs, shape of the head, surface of the scalp (lumps, bumps, and/or dents), moles, scars, customer’s age, customer’s job, desired hairstyle, and the customer’s preference.
A very important note to keep in mind is that no matter how good you are at fading hair, if the fade is too high or too low your customer will not think it is a good haircut. I will say it another way. If the haircut is 100% technically correct but it is not exactly what the customer wants they won’t be happy. This is especially true with the fade haircut customer. It doesn’t matter if they are a young kid or older suit and tie professional. These are the most particular and hardest customers to please.
In this part of the series on how to fade hair I am going to cover hair thickness. Fading hair is difficult enough but when the hair has different thicknesses throughout the head shape it becomes a lot harder. The most common difficulty you will find is when the hair is much lighter around the 1-2 finger area around the hairline also known as the semi-finish. My suggestion is whenever possible fade the hair past the lighter area into the thickest part of the hair (as long as this doesn’t take the fade so high it looks unnatural or past the round of the head). This way you won’t have to blend two different hair textures together.
As always start out with the longer blade and work down which will help you from taking the fade too high. Make sure to leave a quarter to half an inch distance in between blades to create the fading effect.
A quick tip to put the finishing touches on these difficult fades is to use a 40-50 tooth blending scissor to further blend the transition area from lighter to thicker hair. Use the fine teeth of the finishing comb and move the comb at a moderate speed so you don’t take out too much hair. You can always go over it a second time if necessary. Start cutting slightly higher than the transition area so you will only thin out the thicker hair.
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