This is the first in the Masters of Barbering Video Blog Series covering a wide variety of topics. This video follows up on a previous blog teaching the correct way to describe a clipper cut. It is much more professional to educate your clients on how they get their hairctu by the blade measurement and not a number. This will make your customer feel important and unique giving him one more reason to keep coming back!
To be a successful clipper cutter you have to be a master at blending. What is blending? Blending means the same as tapering and fading. By definition as we covered in previous blogs blending/tapering/fading men’s hair means shorter to longer with no line of demarcation. That’s it and nothing more. There is no big secret.
Actually there are two secrets: EDUCATION and PRACTICE.
With just about all of todays’ styles of men’s haircuts some form of blending is required. Think about the hairstyles. Shorter to longer wether it is a tapered hairline, a half inch on the sides blended to a layer top, or a skin length fade. They all blend from shorter to longer without a line of demarcation. The only difference is the technique used. Will you blend/taper/fade with a blade on skin technique or a clipper over comb technique. It is extremely important you know how to do both and when each one is appropriate.
This leads us to practice. We have all heard practice makes perfect but how many of you out there do not want to do anything you are not good at. Don’t worry. I am the same as you. I struggled with flat tops in the beginning of my career and I can’t remember how many of them I did to get to the point I am qualified to teach them. Put an advertisement in the classifieds for free haircuts, offer friends free haircuts, or go to the local college campus and put up free haircut fliers. Do whatever it takes to get as much practice as you can.
More men than ever are going to salons to get haircuts. They make up half of the population and in some salons they account for over 50% of the clientele. If you are a recent cosmetology school graduate you can’t afford not to learn these techniques. One more thing to keep in mind: male customers are very loyal and excellent tippers $$$.
Please visit www.MastersOfBarbering.com for the best in online clipper cutting education and clipper cutting videos.
In the barbering world the word taper is used often. It can mean many things and be very confusing. By definition a tapered haircut means shorter hair around the perimeter of the haircut gradually getting longer. Sometimes it makes more sense to think of it as longer hair tapered down to shorter hair. It is really that simple. That is all a taper or tapered means.
Now I will get into how it can get complicated:
– What is a fade?
– What is a tapered haircut?
– Does a taper show skin on the sides?
– How high should the taper/fade be cut?
– How should the hairline or outline of the haircut be cut?
These are just a few of the ways that the word taper can be over complicated. In this blog I am going to talk about a tapered/faded hairline. The first thing to learn is the words taper and fade mean the same. The hair is cut (tapered/faded) from shorter to longer. Please do not complicate it any more than that. Again, it is that simple.
A tapered outline of a haircut is a great way to finish off men and boys haircut. It looks more finished and professional than just making a line on the back of the neck. Picture a 1 finger width area around the outline of the haircut. Instead of blocking it off this area should have a 45 degree bevel which will leave a soft finish that TAPERS down to the skin without a line. The adjustable clipper is the ideal tool to use combined with the clipper over comb and blade on skin techniques.
Please visit http://www.mastersofbarbering.com for the very best in online clipper cutting education.
The scissor to the barber is the number one tool you need to learn how to use when learning to become a barber. Becoming proficient with your scissor cutting will give you an understanding of the principles of haircutting like no other tools. There was a time not too long ago that the electric clipper did not exist.
In this blog I am going to talk about the straight barber scissor and the purpose of the different lengths, handle designs, and cutting edges. A good barber scissor ranges in length from 5-8 ½ inches. The handles vary from a straight, offset, or swivel grip. The cutting edges can have a smooth, lightly corrugated, or heavily corrugated edge.
Length of Barber Scissor: The shorter scissor ranging from 5-6 ½ inches are ideal for the scissor over finger technique when layering hair or the blade on skin technique when cutting the bangs or the outline of the haircut around the ear and on the back of the neck.
The Barber Scissor Handle: The least expensive scissor comes with a straight handle. The thumb and finger grip are parallel with each other. Moderately priced barber scissors have an ergonomic offset handle. The thumb and the finger grip are offset with the ring finger grip below the thumb grip. The most expensive barber scissors have an offset grip with a swivel handle. The thumb grip is on a swivel as well as offset giving maximum comfort.
Different Cutting Edges for the Barber Scissor: A straight smooth edge is ideal for layering freshly shampooed hair. A barber scissor with a light corrugation is ideal for the scissor over comb technique on freshly shampooed hair. A heavy corrugation is ideal for dry cutting scissor over fingers or scissor over comb.
Please visit http://www.mastersofbarbering.com to learn more about barber supplies, barber tool, and barber equipment.
Haircutting Techniques Part 1 – How to cut hair when it is too short to short pick up with your fingers
Many times when beginning a career in barbering or men’s haircutting the barber or cosmetologist will struggle the most in one particular situation. This is when giving a haircut the hair is too short to pick up with your fingers and the desired length is to be left longer than using the largest clipper attachment. Now what? or a look of confusion is what I get from the student. In my opinion this is where the truly talented are separated from the average.
There are two haircutting techniques that are used in this situation. The first one is called scissor over comb. This haircutting technique is when the comb slowly moves through the hair picking it up and the scissor held in the opposite hand opens and closes quickly cutting the hair. This is the oldest technique in barbering. (Yes, there was a time when the electric clipper did not exist.) With time and practice this technique will become second nature and you will start using it on longer hair instead of picking it up. You will find this haircutting technique to be much more efficient as well as more accurate than picking up the hair in many sections.
The second haircutting technique is clipper over comb. This works the same as scissor over comb except you are using a clipper. I recommend using an adjustable clipper or detachable blade clipper but never a trimmer. The trimmer is not powerful enough and the blade is too fine causing clipper lines in the haircut. Another benefit too this technique is you can begin the taper around the outline of the haircut after you finish each section. This will drastically increase the efficiency of your haircutting without increasing your hand speed. It is extremely important that the customer never feels like you are rushing them out of your chair.
This is the first blog of a multi-part series on men’s haircutting techniques.
Please visit http://www.mastersofbarbering.comto learn about these men’s haircutting techniques and much more.
Throughout my 20 year career as a professional barber and an educator, the most common question I am asked is “how do you fade hair without leaving a line ?” My answer is simple. If you don’t make a line in the first place you won’t have to worry about fading it out. I want you to repeat this statement to yourself every time you are about to begin a fade. FADING HAIR IS SIMPLE. IF YOU DON’T MAKE A LINE YOU DON’T HAVE TO FADE IT OUT.
Now I will explain how to make your job as a barber much easier. Start the haircut on the top instead of the bottom. The first advantage of this technique is you are removing length on the top so that when you start fading with the clipper you won’t lose site of the cutting blade in the excess hair. The next advantage is the clipper will cut through the hair much easier. As the head rounds in at the top take an imaginary line parallel to the side of the head until you run out of hair. This one technique will save you an enormous amount of time and improve your fades drastically.
This technique works best with a detachable blade clipper with metal blades. The power of the clipper plus not having any of the teeth covered with a plastic attachment allows the blade to move through the hair with ease. It also works very well with a powerful adjustable clipper. Make sure the attachments used with this clipper fit extremely tight so you don’t run the risk of it falling while you are fading the hair.
If you follow these steps, not only will you be giving better fades, you will be able to work slower without the fade taking longer.
There was a time when the electric clipper did not exist at all and you were lucky if you had a hand clipper. Hand Clipper? Does anyone even know what that is? It is a clipper blade attached to two metal handles that fit in the palm your hand. It had to be opened and closed as fast as possible to avoid pulling the hair while cutting it. Who would ever want to put themselves and their customer through that?
So how did barbers cut short hair efficiently? They use the oldest and most prestigious technique which is the scissor over comb technique. Different size combs were used the way different size clipper attachments are used today. The outline was done with the point of the scissor and finished with a straight razor shave.
There are two great benefits to cutting hair this way:
1. Cutting hair with the scissors and the scissor over comb technique teaches a great understanding of graduation (shorter hair graduating into longer hair).
2. It gives the customer a lot more confidence in the barber cutting their hair. The reason? The perception of a higher level of skill and the barber taking greater care in the finished product. There is a big difference in using this technique versus the barber asking the customer what number they get and running the clipper up the side of their head.
Learning to cut hair with the proper scissor techniques will go a long way to improving the quality of your haircuts and the perceived value of the service you are providing. This is what ultimately leads to greater customer retention, charging higher prices, and receiving larger tips on a consistent basis.
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